Forgotten Temples of Tamil Nadu

 Veerattanathar Temple, Tiruvathigai

This temple dedicated to Lord Shiva is over 1500 years old. It was in existence during the reign of Pallava king Mahendravarman (7^th Century CE). The temple was in existence centuries before the Big Temple of Thanjavur was built. King Rajaraja Chola is understood to have taken some ideas of temple construction from here. The temple is located about 2 kilometres from the town of Panruti, which is close to Neyveli. The presiding deity is called Veerttaneswarar and his consort is Tripurasundari. The name is taken from the legend in which Lord Shiva vanquished the Tripura demons. Here Lord Shiva's consort is on the right side of the sanctum sanctorum. 

There are two prakarams in this temple. There is a tower at the entrance to the first prakaram and another tower at the entrance to the 2nd prakaram. Inside these 2 prakarams, the sanctum sanctorum of Lord Shiva and that of female deity is situated. There is no entrance in front of the sanctum. One has to get inside through the south side entrance. On the vimana above the sanctum, one can see the sculpture of Tripura Samhara Murthy with his 12 hands with a stance of Thiripura Samharam. The sivalingam inside the sanctum has 16 faces in it. There are scupltures of Thirunavukarasar and that of his elder sister Tilakavathy.

This temple is associated with the life of Thirunavukarasar, who was one of the principal Nayanmars. In the earlier part of his life, Thirunavukarsar was a follwer of Jainism and gave lectures in support of Jainism. His elder sister Tilakavathy was an ardent follower of Lord Shiva at Tiruvathigai and wanted her brother to become a Shiva devotee. She prayed to Lord Shiva daily for the fulfillment of her desire. Thirunavukkarasar was afflicted with a severe stomach disorder.. At this juncture, he came to Tiruvathigai to visit his sister. Tilakavathy convinced her brother that he will be cured of his diesease by praying to Lord Shiva. He visited the shrine of Lord Shiva at Tiruvathigai and composed Pathigams (Poems of ten stanzas) worshipping Him and requesting Lord Shiva to free him from the immense suffering. Thirunavukarasar, who was known as Vageesar at that time, took a dip in the well situated in the north prakaram and drank the water from the well. Vageesar was completely cured from his disease. It was Lord Shiva who called Vageesar by the name of Navukarasan for the first time. Since then Vageesar was known as Thirunavukarasar. He is also known as Appar to the followers of Saivism. Later, Thirinavukarasar spent time maintaining the lawns around the temple using a spade (Uzhavarapadai). His idols anywhere show him only with this tool.

The temple organises a seven day festival in honour of Appar in the Tamil month of Chithirai (April-May). Other Nayanmars like Gnanasambandaar and Sundaramurthy have composed songs in praise of the lord here. Hence this temple takes the honour of being named as a “Paadal Petra Sthalam” (a temple which has been honoured by songs by many great devotees or Nayanmars).

The temple is not known very well ouside a small circle. However, I was surprised to find the temple maintained fairly well. I also found that this place is very popular among local people for conducting marriages. Here are some pictures I had taken:

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Pol Pot – Hitler of The East

K S Kanakasabapathi

There are innumerable temples that can be visited by one interested in archaeology but the common tourist gets “templed out” after three or four days of temple tour, visiting ruins and learning about the glorious past of a country now reduced to utter poverty. Here is a country that has no electricity except through diesel generators, no railway systems and no highways of standard equal to its neighbours. We had decided to reserve one day for the capital Phnom Penh where we could visit the Genocide Museum otherwise known as the Killing Fields. Tough this was covered by us during the first part of our stay, I have made it the last part in my write up to give prominence to the past glory of the country.

Siem Reap is closer to Thailand border and is north of Phnom Penh. We had taken a flight to Phnom Penh from Bangkok and took a bus from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap, which is close to the Angkor Temples. The bus journey was very tedious and consumed over six hours through a “Highway” which was as good as a bad city road. Miles of paddy fields and small towns without electricity lined the route. Hence we decided to seek other means of transport for our return to Phnm Penh. There were two alternatives. One was hiring a van as we were seven people and the other was taking a boat which would take us along the Mekong River to Phnom Penh. This river is the border between Cambodia and Vietnam. We found that the boat service was only once a day and would be leaving early morning. Since we wanted to cover Banteay Srei before going to Phnom Penh, we had to opt for a van only. The van took about four and a half hours to reach Phnom Penh.

No visit to Cambodia can be complete without a personal view of the dark ages of the 1970's when Pol Pot ruled the country. Anyone can get first hand information about Pol Pot through Wikipedia and hence I am avoiding the details of his life history etc., to concentrate on what we saw in the Killing Fields.

Here is a brief information on Pol Pot before I proceed further:

Saloth Sar (19 May 1925 – 15 April 1998),better known as Pol Pot, was a Cambodian Maoist revolutionary who led the Khmer Rouge from 1963 until his death in 1998. From 1963 to 1981, he served as the General Secretary of the Communist Party of Kampuchea. From 1976 to 1979, he also served as the prime minister of Democratic Kampuchea. Pol Pot became leader of Cambodia on April 17, 1975. During his time in power he imposed agrarian socialism, forcing urban dwellers to relocate to the countryside to work in collective farms and forced labor projects. The combined effects of forced labor, malnutrition, poor medical care, and executions resulted in the deaths of approximately 21% of the Cambodian population.In all, an estimated 800,000 to three million people (out of a population of approximately seven million) died under his three-year premiership.


The Killing Fields in Phnom Penh is one of the sites where such executions were carried out. The present government has made this a museum exhibiting the horrors along with a display of weapons used and a video show.

This picture of the display at the entrance shows how truck loads of victims were brought to the site

The executions were carried out using weapons like axe etc. To prevent the crying of the victims from being heard, a loudspeaker was fixed on a nearby tree with loud music being played. The victioms prior ro execution were to dig pits for mass burial. The bodies were thrown into the pits with a DDT spray to ensure that anyone still alive would be dead and also to prevent spreading of infections. Here are one mass burial pit and the tree from which a blaring loudspeaker was hung:

Here are some of the weapons used for killing:

Even children were not spared as could be seen from this picture. One is reminded of our own Krishna story in which Kamsa killed the children of his sister Devaki in a similar way:

The skulls taken out from the mass graves are exhibited in a tower. The skulls are seggregated agewise and genderwise. These exhibits were in a thatched shed earlier, and now have been placed in a multistoried tower. The upper decks contain other bones.

This picture shows an ex-school teacher who assisted Pol Pot's men in executing many people. After the fall of Pol Pot, he quietly went back to his school. Years later, he was identified and tried in a court of law. The people feel that the punishment of a few years in prison was nowhere equal to the crime.

A visit to the Killing Fields has the same effect as visiting the Holocaust Museum in Washington DC or the Peace Park in Hiroshima. It shows how low can humans descend in their hunger for power.

With this post I am concluding the visit to Cambodia and shall move on to some other topic shortly. I hope thet the viewers found the posts useful and interesting. I shall just add a a few pictures of Samudra Manthan statue at Bangkok's Suvarnabhoomi Airport, which I was keen to see to make sure it was real. This statue was in the departure area after checking in and the people in arrival area were unaware of its existence. This will help to end the post in a happy note.

Banteay Srei-Jewel in the Crown

Banteay Srei

Jewel in the Crown

(Hindu Temples in Cambodia Part IV)

We had spent three days visiting temples of grandeur and in various stages of neglect. There are many more temples available but the constraint of time made us limit our stay to four days in Siem Reap. Incidentally, the name “Siem Reap” means “Victory over Siam”. There has been continuous dispute between Cambodia and Thailand over the territory in which the temples are located.

The last day was reserved for a completely different experience at Banteay Srei. This temple is a bit away from Siem Reap and we decided to combine the visit with our return to Phnom Penh. A distance of about 25 to 30 kilometres had to be covered and we had arranged a van to take us back to Phnom Penh via Banteay Srei. The owners of Ta Som Hotel where we stayed came out to see us off, after looking after us extremely well during our stay. As before I had collected information about Banteay Srei so that we could make the visit fruitful.

The temple is quite small in size and a good bit of the structure had already disappeared. It is built of sandstone with exquisite carvings following the Chola style. The temple was constructed by the Khmer king Rajendravarman who ruled during 944-968 and the temple was constructed in 967. Hence it could be seen that it predated the Big Temple of Thanjavur which was constructed in the 11^th century almost fifty years later. The temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva.

The carvings are so exquisite that it is believed thet male sculpters could not have achived such skill and that the carvings were done by female sculpters. The term “Srei” stands for ladies in Khmer language.

Banteay Srei is built largely of red sandstone, a medium that lends itself to the elaborate decorative wall carvings which are still observable today. The buildings themselves are miniature in scale, unusually so when measured by the standards of Angkorian construction. These factors have made the temple extremely popular with tourists, and have led to its being widely praised as a "Precious Gem", or the "Jewel of Khmer art."

Since the temple is much smaller in size as compared to the others in the region, it should be possible to complete the tour in about three hours, spending time over the details of carvings. Since the pictures speak better than words, I am giving below some pictures which speak for themselves.

Being seen off from Ta Som Guest House

Tuk Tuk Ride

Indra on His Elephant

Gajalakshmi

Entrance



Inside Temple Complex

Temple Complex

Intricate Artwork

Rama Killing Vaali

Intricate Artwork

Shiva and Parvathi on Rishabha Vahana

Fresh Palmyra Juice, which was being sold outside the temple complex was really refreshing after a tour in the sun.

Ladies who were selling mementos were attracted by the kunkum stickers being used by our ladies and were pestering them for the stickers. The lady who finally received a bunch of stickers was very happy and posed for a photograph.

 

Ta Prohm Tour

Hindu Temples of Cambodia

Part III

K.S. Kanakasabaapathi

Ta Prohm

This part covers one of the most interesting temples which has attracted tourists from all over the world; the Ta Prohm Temple. This temple is slightly away from Siem Reap and is worth the visit The visuals are breath taking.

The temple was built by Jayavarman VII (1186) and later additions were made by Jayavarman VIII (1243-1295) and Srindravarman (1295-1307). The term Ta Prohm meand Temple for Brahma, But Buddha seems to have been the presiding deity at some point of time either before Brahma or after.

The temple architecture follows a flat terrain pattern unlike most of the other temples in which the presiding deity was placed in an elevated position.

The temple seems to have bcome neglected from 14^th or 15^th century and nature had taken over. Trees have grown all around the place, including cobering the structures. The trees were mainly strangler fig and silk cotton. The roots have spread their tentacles around and on top of the structures presenting a picture of nature's full capability. There are also blocks of stone stren all over making a giant 3D jigsaw puzzle.

Archaeological Survey of India has taken over the restoration process which actually ooks formidable. It is understood that the ASI had decided to keep certain structures and trees as they are as it may be impossible to meddle with the present state. There is every possiblility that if some of the trees are removed, the structure itself may come down. Maintaining staus quo will also help tourists to understand how nature had worked around the temple and it will continue to be a tourist attraction.

After the fall of the Khmer empire in the 15th century, the temple of Ta Prohm was abandoned and neglected for centuries. When the effort to conserve and restore the temples of Angkor began in the early 20th century, the École française d'Extrême-Orient decided that Ta Prohm would be left largely as it had been found, as a "concession to the general taste for the picturesque." According to pioneering Angkor scholar Maurice Glaize, Ta Prohm was singled out because it was "one of the most imposing temples and the one which had best merged with the jungle, but not yet to the point of becoming a part of it". Nevertheless, much work has been done to stabilize the ruins, to permit access, and to maintain this condition of apparent neglect.

As of 2010, however, it seems Archaeological Survey of India has undertaken a more aggressive approach to restoration. All the plants and shrubs have been cleared from the site and some of trees are also getting removed. A crane has been erected and a large amount of building work is underway to restore the temple, with much of the work seemingly just rebuilding the temple from scratch as at other sites. Wooden walkways, platforms, and roped railings have been put in place around the site which now block some of the previously famous postcard photo opportunities.

The temple of Ta Prohm was used as a location in the film Tomb Raider. The temple rquires at least four hours to explore. Here are some pictures which are self explanatory::

Giant 3D Jigsaw Puzzle

Ta Keo

Ta Keo had to be the state temple of Jayavarman V, son of Rajendravarman, who had built Pre Rup. Like Pre Rup, it has five sanctuary towers arranged in a quincunx, built on the uppermost level of five-tier pyramid consisting of overlapping terraces (a step pyramid), surrounded by moat, as a symbolic depiction of Mount Meru. Its particularly massive appearance is due to the absence of external decorations, as carving had just begun when the works stopped, besides an elaborate use of perspective effects. It is considered an example of the so-called Khleang style.

The main axis of the temple is E-W and a causeway connects its eastern entrance to a landing stage on the Eastern Baray, with which Ta Keo was in tightly relationship. The outer banks of the surrounding moats have now vanished.

Along the eastern side of the second terrace in the corners there are two buildings that are the shorter version of the long galleries of the first terrace. More towards the central axis there are two little sandstone "libraries", opening to the west, with false windows on upper storeys.

The final pyramid rises in three narrow steps from the second terrace. Its base is square, the summit is square and stands above the ground. The four stairways that lead on the summit are continuous and very steep. At the foot of the eastern one there is a statue of a kneeling Nandi, which confirms that Ta Keo was a Shivaite temple. The absence of any decoration makes the final pyramid really massive. However on the east face some damaged carvings of floral patterns are still visible.

The four corner towers on the summit stand on high basements and open to the four cardinal points with protruding vestibules. In the central tower, which dominates the others from its basement, the vestibules are doubled. Fragments of lingas and several statues were found in the sanctuary chambers

History

Jayavarman V was ten year old when succeeded to his father, Rajendravarman, in 968 A.D. His early years of reign were rather turbulent and the court officials dominated the royal politics. When he was aged seventeen (in 975 AD), he began the construction of his own state temple, whose modern name is Ta Keo, that was dedicated some time around 1000 AD. In contemporary inscriptions it is called Hemagiri or Hemasringagiri ("the mountain with golden summits"). It remains unfinished. Yogisvarapandita, a high priest who became minister of Suryavarman I and "received" the temple from him many years later, says in inscriptions that a lightning strike hit the unfinished building, an evil omen, so the works stopped. Maybe works stopped simply because of the death of Jayavarman V, as there was a struggle for succession. Actually the temple worked continuously as a cult center until the 13th century and even Yogisvarapandita worshipped the shrines at the first levels of the temple.

A term tightly linked to Hemasringagiri is Jayendranagari (which in Sanskrit means "capital of the victorious king"), the royal palace or maybe the new capital city of Jayavarman V. However the remains of this large hypothesized ensemble are very scarce. Today only a tower in the south-west survives, similar to the corner towers of Ta Keo, with an unusual single door to the south.

The Sanskrit Library has vanished and only the building remains. There are inscriptions on the walls, which according to the lone security guard are supposed to be in Sanskrit but the script appears to be Khmer.
There are a lot of huge stone blocks lying around giving the impression that the temple was subjected to a massive earthquake. The security guard informed that Pol Pot, who ruled during 1975-79 and terrorized people had removed all traces of Sanskrit.  The security guard said he received a salary of US$ 1 per day!

Here are some pictures.

Ta Keo Temple with Three Terraces



Lingam Base Only

Sanskrit Inscription?

 

Hindu Temples of Cambodia

Part II
K.S. Kanakasabapathi

I had already given the details of Angkor Wat, the best preserved monument among the temples of Cambodia. This temple was visited by us on the second day starting at 5 am to see the sunrise over Angkor Wat. By the time were through most of the temple, we were tired and had to go for lunch at around 12 noon, having skipped breakfast. We had lunch at an Indian restaurant in the market area which served an apology for Indian vegetarian food. We gupled the food and went for buying souvenirs in the market area. Later we had some rest in the hotel and went for a foot massage in a parlour nearby. They give excellent foot massage for a nominal fee of $ 5 and that relieves all the strain on the feet.

I have not covered the first day of the trip and I shall do so now. The place selected was Angkr Thom, a so called city consisting of temples, terraces, palace etc. This place also needed a good lot of walking and climbing. The walled “City” has four gates and we entered through the south gate which was the nearest when approaching from the hotel via Angkor Wat. The south gate has a tower with Lokeswara Head (Brahma is called “Lokeswara”).

The construction of this complex was spread over a few centuries starting from Udyadityavarman (1050-1066), Jayavarman VII (1181-1220) to Jayavarman VIII (1240-1295). Most of the structures are in a vary bad stage of decay and extensive restoration works are going on with help from variuos organizations around the world.

One of the Entrances to Angkor Thom

Entrance Tower

We first visited the Bayon Temple. It is a huge structure with many towers having Lokeswara faces and in a relatively better shape compared to other structures in the complex. This was constructed by Jayavarman VII and additions made by Jayavarman VIII.

Bayon Temple Lokeswara Head

Bayon Temple Complex

Bayon Temple Entrance

Our next halt was at the Terrace of the Leper King.which was again created by Jayavarman VII who was a leprosy patient. This terrace ia a raised platform from whare he gave audience to the public. The supporting walls have intricate sculptures. Ajoining is the Terrace of the Elephants. This got its name from the figures of elephants that appear as if they support the raised platform. There again intricate sculptures on the walls which are protected by walls by restoration organizers to maintain without further damage.

Terrace of The Leper King

Terrace of The Leper King Side Wall

Terrace of The Elephants

Protected Wall of The Terrace of The Elephants

I shuld mention here that walking from one place to another can be very tedious. We had engaged a van but for smaller groups upto four, a Tuk Tuk will do. Tuk Tuks which are convrted two wheelers ara available in plenty and cost very reasonably. You are welcome to bargain. The currency used is US Dollar. Even the ATM's give our Dollars.

The next halt was the Royal Palace. Thi construction of this is attributed to Rajendravarman's successor Jayavarman V. However this is not clearly established. Going into this structure involved a steep climb. I had to skip it while my son, daughter in law and grandson made it to the top. According to them the place had interesting items to see. It was mentioned that Jayavarman VII lived here, but I am unable to think how he could come down being a leprosy patient or even brought down in a palanquin down the steps.

Royal Palace

Baphuon Temple is another place to be seen in the complex. This is under renovation and access inside is restricted. But you can walk around the outside and observe the hugeness and some details of the structure. All these structures are Buddhist.

Outside Baphuon

Outside Baphuon

Buddha in Angkor Thom A Later Addistion?

This part of the tour required about six hours including searching for members who strayed away. We decided to leave the premises and go for delayed lunch and some rest. The evening was reserved for visit to Phnom Bakeng from where we were supposed to witness the sunset.

Phnom Bakeng is one of the oldest temples in Cambodia and was dedicated to Lord Shiva constructed by Yasovarman I in 9th-10^th century. The temple is on top of a hill and has to be reached after a steep climb over the hill. Further, the steps leading to the temple are extremely steep and older persons will have to be very careful if they want to reach the temple. I somehow reached the top with the help of youngsters as I did not want to miss anything important after travelling all the way to Cambodia. The sanctum sanctorum has been emptied and the base of the Lingam is found scattered. The sunset view was not breathtaking contrary to the hype created, but the visit to the temple was worth the trouble. On the way down at the base of the temple, there is a Nandhi statue which has been garlanded.

Way Up Phnom Bakeng

Climbing Up Phnom Bakeng

Struggling to Go Up

Phnom Bakeng Sculpture

Sunset

Nandhi

The sun had set by the time we left and the way down was dark, Some tourists had flashlights and this helped us find the way. Half way down, rains started and somehow we reached a small shelter before it became a heavy downpour. After a wait of over half an hour, we managed to get back to our van and reach the hotel. The trip was a real adventure after all!