Hindu Temples of Cambodia

Part II
K.S. Kanakasabapathi

I had already given the details of Angkor Wat, the best preserved monument among the temples of Cambodia. This temple was visited by us on the second day starting at 5 am to see the sunrise over Angkor Wat. By the time were through most of the temple, we were tired and had to go for lunch at around 12 noon, having skipped breakfast. We had lunch at an Indian restaurant in the market area which served an apology for Indian vegetarian food. We gupled the food and went for buying souvenirs in the market area. Later we had some rest in the hotel and went for a foot massage in a parlour nearby. They give excellent foot massage for a nominal fee of $ 5 and that relieves all the strain on the feet.

I have not covered the first day of the trip and I shall do so now. The place selected was Angkr Thom, a so called city consisting of temples, terraces, palace etc. This place also needed a good lot of walking and climbing. The walled “City” has four gates and we entered through the south gate which was the nearest when approaching from the hotel via Angkor Wat. The south gate has a tower with Lokeswara Head (Brahma is called “Lokeswara”).

The construction of this complex was spread over a few centuries starting from Udyadityavarman (1050-1066), Jayavarman VII (1181-1220) to Jayavarman VIII (1240-1295). Most of the structures are in a vary bad stage of decay and extensive restoration works are going on with help from variuos organizations around the world.

One of the Entrances to Angkor Thom

Entrance Tower

We first visited the Bayon Temple. It is a huge structure with many towers having Lokeswara faces and in a relatively better shape compared to other structures in the complex. This was constructed by Jayavarman VII and additions made by Jayavarman VIII.

Bayon Temple Lokeswara Head

Bayon Temple Complex

Bayon Temple Entrance

Our next halt was at the Terrace of the Leper King.which was again created by Jayavarman VII who was a leprosy patient. This terrace ia a raised platform from whare he gave audience to the public. The supporting walls have intricate sculptures. Ajoining is the Terrace of the Elephants. This got its name from the figures of elephants that appear as if they support the raised platform. There again intricate sculptures on the walls which are protected by walls by restoration organizers to maintain without further damage.

Terrace of The Leper King

Terrace of The Leper King Side Wall

Terrace of The Elephants

Protected Wall of The Terrace of The Elephants

I shuld mention here that walking from one place to another can be very tedious. We had engaged a van but for smaller groups upto four, a Tuk Tuk will do. Tuk Tuks which are convrted two wheelers ara available in plenty and cost very reasonably. You are welcome to bargain. The currency used is US Dollar. Even the ATM's give our Dollars.

The next halt was the Royal Palace. Thi construction of this is attributed to Rajendravarman's successor Jayavarman V. However this is not clearly established. Going into this structure involved a steep climb. I had to skip it while my son, daughter in law and grandson made it to the top. According to them the place had interesting items to see. It was mentioned that Jayavarman VII lived here, but I am unable to think how he could come down being a leprosy patient or even brought down in a palanquin down the steps.

Royal Palace

Baphuon Temple is another place to be seen in the complex. This is under renovation and access inside is restricted. But you can walk around the outside and observe the hugeness and some details of the structure. All these structures are Buddhist.

Outside Baphuon

Outside Baphuon

Buddha in Angkor Thom A Later Addistion?

This part of the tour required about six hours including searching for members who strayed away. We decided to leave the premises and go for delayed lunch and some rest. The evening was reserved for visit to Phnom Bakeng from where we were supposed to witness the sunset.

Phnom Bakeng is one of the oldest temples in Cambodia and was dedicated to Lord Shiva constructed by Yasovarman I in 9th-10^th century. The temple is on top of a hill and has to be reached after a steep climb over the hill. Further, the steps leading to the temple are extremely steep and older persons will have to be very careful if they want to reach the temple. I somehow reached the top with the help of youngsters as I did not want to miss anything important after travelling all the way to Cambodia. The sanctum sanctorum has been emptied and the base of the Lingam is found scattered. The sunset view was not breathtaking contrary to the hype created, but the visit to the temple was worth the trouble. On the way down at the base of the temple, there is a Nandhi statue which has been garlanded.

Way Up Phnom Bakeng

Climbing Up Phnom Bakeng

Struggling to Go Up

Phnom Bakeng Sculpture

Sunset

Nandhi

The sun had set by the time we left and the way down was dark, Some tourists had flashlights and this helped us find the way. Half way down, rains started and somehow we reached a small shelter before it became a heavy downpour. After a wait of over half an hour, we managed to get back to our van and reach the hotel. The trip was a real adventure after all!